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Four secrets to early recovery from a finger pulley injury

One of the most common injuries avid climbers will experience is a tear to an annular pulley along one of their fingers. This structure helps to keep tendons in place. When placing excessive weight loads onto fingers, such as while reaching into pockets on the wall, the risk is higher. A pulley tear is often associated with a popping sound, pain, and swelling around the finger. It takes some time to heal, but taking care of the injury can reduce the time to recover. I will be revealing to you four secrets that will help you get back out there faster with some basic exercises and useful tips.

The first things to consider are applying ice and taking time to rest it. Icing the finger for 15-20 minutes 2-3x/day aids in reducing swelling, making it easier to move. Rest by avoiding excessive stressful loads on the hand. Major strength activities are a bad idea at this point in time. Instead, use your time by going through a few exercises to keep the fingers mobile and stretched.

Gentle stretches of the fingers are helpful. Take your fingers and gently push them back into extension. Hold for 20 seconds or more if able and try that 5 times. Go the opposite way by trying to make a fist. If your injured finger can’t make it all the way into a fist, give it a little pressure to stretch it. Again, this should be gentle, without drastically increasing pain levels.

Another handy (pun not intended) exercise is to try tendon glides. Start with your palm facing outward, fingers straight. Curl your fingers over so that the tips of your fingers are pointing straight down. Both knuckles in the fingers will be bent at this point. Follow this up with straightening the fingers out, but bending at the first knuckle. From this spot, then bend the middle knuckle. Return to starting position after that. Confused? Follow this link to watch a video I made of this exercise.

The last exercise I will cover today is thumb opposition. Simply take your thumb and index finger to reach the other to make contact with the tips. Then do the same with the thumb and middle finger. Then the ring finger and, finally, the pinky. Repeat the process several times. This helps to maintain and improve dexterity in your hand.

Once ready, return to sport should be gradual. Light strengthening exercises will be incorporated. After graduating from that, try some hang boarding on big holds before easing into some easy routes that also have easy handholds. For best results, this should be done under the guidance of a rehabilitation and sports professional. Returning too quickly and with poor technique increases the likelihood of re-injury. Don’t let that happen to you! Call today to get help with your finger injury! I will be posting some exercises in the future to progress yourself and help get you back on the crag. If you want more info, please email me at scott@backcountry.physio or reach out on Backcountry Physical Therapy’s social media pages. Be sure to check back on the website for more blog posts and follow us on social media for helpful tips to keep yourself pain-free!

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AUTHOR

Dr. Scott Runyon

Backcountry Physical Therapy

We Help Mountain Athletes Not Only Recover From Injuries, But Build Them Back Stronger Than They Were Before, So That Injuries Are Less Likely To Happen Again!
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sudchai dupreez
sudchai dupreez
2022-12-14
I can't encourage Scott Runyon/Backcountry PT enough! I have a torn labrum in my hip and was set to go to surgery. Going to Scott was my last ditch effort to push surgery back and he did it! I have a very active job and I feel stronger now then I did before and Scott got me back to play again. What I really appreciate is that no matter what physical issues that arise I can go to Scott and he always finds a way to get me back in the game! Thank you Scott!
Joel Fraser
Joel Fraser
2022-12-08
Scott has been an integral part of my continued success in my career and in my training! He has been there for every step helping me through all the aches and pains that come with my occupation. If I didn’t have Scott in my corner I’m pretty sure I’d be dealing with multiple surgeries and missed opportunities. Can’t recommend him enough. Thanks Scott!
Wendy Spillar
Wendy Spillar
2022-12-06
I've been working with Scott for over a year on my hip and back pain. I'm a fitness trainer and a caretaker and I'm very interested in staying as joint healthy as possible without surgery and Scott is helping me with this goal. His creative techniques and strategies are A+, highly recommend!
DyVonne Thornton
DyVonne Thornton
2022-12-06
Scott is an amazing person and knows what he is doing. I am a professional MMA fighter and Backcountry PT is a big part of it! I absolutely would recommend Backcountry to anyone struggling with injury.
Mike V
Mike V
2022-12-05
I had a couple of injuries in rapid succession that resulted in some significant quad issues. Scott helped me rehab the quad through a mix of visits and at-home workouts. I have opted for a monthly maintenance plan to keep me out on the trails. I highly recommend Scott.
Evan Canfield
Evan Canfield
2022-06-20
Scott has been an absolute life saver for not only my body but my career. I cannot recommend Backcountry enough. Scott's attention to detail and commitment to each and every patient is unparalleled. Thank you Scott for not only helping me get back to my old self but motivating me to come back better and stronger.
Adam Schwerdt
Adam Schwerdt
2022-04-28
Can't go wrong seeing Dr. Runyon for your outdoor adventures and activities! He will ensure all your needs and concerns are addressed not just for your current injury, but also to help get you set up for the long term. As a colleague who is also a PT there are few other PT's I recommend in the Springs and he certainly makes the cut!
Mehdi Shelhamer
Mehdi Shelhamer
2022-04-20
I highly recommend Scott. I say this both as a patient and a fellow healthcare worker. He is very attentive, listens well and devises an appropriate treatment plan. But better than that, he is constantly assessing your progress and tweaking the plan as needed. Additionally, his use of technology is very helpful with a phone app that keeps you in line. He is also very quick to respond to any questions. Yes, you can find less expensive physical therapy options, but with Scott, you get what you pay for.
matthew stempson
matthew stempson
2022-02-19
I had a shoulder injury and had been dealing with the pain for about a year now. In just three sessions I have learned many excercises and stretches to help me on my road to recovery. I am already seeing a good amount of improvement. He is very knowledgeable and is great to work with. Thanks Scott!
Bobbi Rocco
Bobbi Rocco
2022-02-02
I fell snow skiing. Scott helped me by showing me how to do some exercises right away so I would not develop frozen shoulder. My range of motion improved. His expertise and knowledge has helped and I hope to be able to resume all of my sports soon.